Richard - Sorry I'm a little late in this reply but per your question regarding the old Hammond RR 8mm movies, I did have them transferred to a DVD a few years back and can probably send you a video if you are interested. Jim Shaw
Would love to see your PDF files, Richard! Many PDF viewer applications allow one to export a file to a graphics format, such as JPEG or PNG. If your PDF viewer does not allow for that you can send me the files, I'll convert and return them to you. Just let me know, and thanks again for all your contributions! Regards,
P.S. Really enjoyed the Portland Cement article in RMC and wish I could see your layout in person.
Richard Thanks for the tips. First, I am a computor boob. The photos I am finding were taken by mainly by my dad who just pointed b&w Kodac at it and clicked. A lot are fuzzy and probably of no interest to anyone, and that is why I posted on my page so people could look if they wanted or not. The scanner is a HP "office pro 8600" combination unit, and I asked my wife to scan them. We got some out of order, and I am trying to figure out how to change them. Some I hit wrong button and their was no caption, but I did attempt to edit them. When I find more photos, I think I have an improved way to enter them with caption and in order (I think). And you are right, I am searching local photo shop to put some 8mm on disc for several reasons. Most of our photos were "take some to finish roll", but they may be of interest to someone. Again, thank you for your comments and tips. "OHIO" Jim
Richard This is first for me and most of these old photos were poorly taken by us. I did put information on the next batch and will try to figure out how to get back to the first few. Also, I am still going through more pictures and I even have some 8mm clips (mostly Sonoma) but I have not figured out how to do that yet. Thanks for your comment, I will try Jim
Got your message about the updates to the modelers' group and how best to preserve information for the group. I did two things: added a page for the current informational topic about which you have been posting ("Trains 3 & 4, Tiger Stripe SD-7s"), and I made you an administrator for the modelers' group. So you can now edit the page above as you like or, if you'd rather, I can add all the initial content and you can proof-read and edit as desired. Please take a look when you have a moment and let me know if you have any questions. Regards,
Richard, I hired as a brakeman at Eureka summer of 1971, and worked there until transferring to the SP at Roseville in Feb of '72. I got promoted to an engineer in '73, and I'm still here, and on 1/1/13, I am finally going to retire with over 41 yrs.
I didn't get to the nose hearld or the frame stripes today like I wanted. Yeah, I am pretty pleased with how the lowered nose turned out. All of my other locomotives are going to be right out of the box. No manufactures make a chop-nose SD9, so I was forced to do a kit-bash.
I have four other undecorated and powered Athern Blue Box SD9's and three undecorated shells. I plan to make NWP SD "Black Widow" #4324, #4327 and #4424 as well. I have alrady modified some of th eshells and put aftermarket white metal detail parts.
I also want to do two CFNR SD9's (#200 ad #201). I came across a website that sells Rail Power SD 9 shells that fit on the Athearn drivetrain. These shells appear to have the correct details for the CFNR units. Athearn's have molded on detail parts on teh roof that the CFNR units do not have.
I'll keep you updated as to my progress of the next few months.
Halleluia! Thank you, Richard. I've visited the site and bookmarked it for future use. I had a feeling it was German technology and I knew I was on to something when I saw those machines in that article.
One reason I joined is because I'm trying to find out what company makes the switch machines you use on your layout which were featured in the March 2011 issue of Railroad Model Craftsman, Page 77. I can't find anything remotely like them on the web and I have beaten my search engines to a bloody pulp to no avail searching for them. I've even emailed RMC so far with no result.
I am especially interested because of the low profile they present when used at track level in a staging yard. Mine is suspended from my drop ceiling gridwork using threaded rod holding up a six track yard 22" wide on 1/2" plywood using 1.5" wide 3/16 thick foam topper tape with a 1.5" wide masonite fence on the edges to prevent plummets to the floor and partially block the view of the trains.
I'm pretty sure these machines won't be visible from floor level.
Rick Shivik - Conyers, GA - HO D&H Champlain Division under construction - highly respectful of NWP modelers and humbly requesting information.
Richard, that horse is not yet dead, it would seem! Just learned from Ning that complaints about the activity feed change were so widespread that they will be reverting the behavior early next week, so once that happens I'll make the change on this network and perhaps you, I, and a few other members will be a good deal happier. Thanks!
So an update on my progress, I ended up going with the cork exclusively for now. This really helped when needing to sand transitions to industrial spurs and such. I think there is a place for foam on the layout, just not yet =). Thanks for the recommends.
Richard, unfortunately there's nothing I can do to change the current activity feed behavior -- it's all or nothing. Ning has received an avalanche of negative feedback about this latest change, however, so I expect they'll allow networks to return to the "old" style or something like it very soon. Thanks for your input, as always!
I agree with your comments regarding roadbed. The bench test had sound deadening edge to foam however there were certainly several things I did not like. One thing I heard on another forum was the tendency for foam to stay flexible for life whereas cork gets pretty set. This could have adverse effects with ballast I suppose I dunno. Thanks for the 2 cents.